Stepping into the arcane world of bespoke tailoring is both a privilege and a minefield – particularly in London, the city that remains a global reference. Savile Row still reigns here, but over the past 20 years or so, the capital has welcomed a growing number of independent and international tailors, who have set up shop across town. Whether you want bespoke (where a suit is entirely handmade for you using a unique paper pattern) or made-to-measure (where an off-the-peg pattern is adjusted to you), there’s more choice than ever before. Here are 23 of the most distinctive tailors in London today.
Anderson & Sheppard
Titans of stage, screen and high society
One of the all-time greats, Anderson & Sheppard was established in 1906 and has been the choice of Hollywood stars ever since. Fred Astaire used to dance in the shop wearing his white tie and tails to be sure the neck would sit on his shirt collar.
-
House codes Soft shoulders. Natural waistlines. Generous proportions. “Unlike most Savile Row tailoring, which is rooted in military dress, we’re all about softness and fluidity,” explains owner Anda Rowland.
-
Classic clients King Charles III, Daniel Craig, Gary Cooper, AA Gill, Fran Lebowitz. “I’m tempted to say that Anderson & Sheppard is a national treasure,” says long-time client Graydon Carter. “This is wrong; it’s an international treasure.”
-
Cost Bespoke two-piece suits from £6,600
-
Where 32 Old Burlington Street, W1, anderson-sheppard.co.uk
The Anthology
Contemporary city slickers
Co-founded by Buzz Tang and Andy Chong in Hong Kong, The Anthology has earned its place in London’s tailoring landscape thanks to its sophisticated and well-priced garments. “The Anthology are masters at representing the tastes of a broad church of guys,” explains Permanent Style columnist Manish Puri. Expect suits with subtly extended shoulders that “convey a soft, respectful masculinity”, according to Tang.
-
House codes Unstructured jackets. Extended shoulders. Soft textures.
-
Classic clients The Anthology’s tailoring “fits like a glove”, says long-time customer and connoisseur Bill Nighy.
-
Cost Bespoke two-piece suits from £3,120
-
Where Trunk shows; see theanthology.net
Atelier Arena
Cool cats and culture vultures
Tom Arena established his namesake studio in 2021, building on an impressive career as head cutter at Paul Smith. He’s known for his arty clientele and bespoke suede casualwear – as well as his clean-cut suits, sports jackets and overcoats.
-
House codes One-button jackets. Turn-back cuffs. Jetted (flapless) pockets. “Tom is a wonderful designer as well as a craftsman,” says graphic designer and art director Peter Saville. “He’s made me an exceptional suede blazer. Now we’re working on a pair of flared jeans.”
-
Classic clients “Tom’s garments make me feel like a boss,” adds actor Stephen Graham. Other notable clients include Iwan Wirth, Paul Weller – “Tom recently made me my dream sheepskin coat,” he says – and Gary Oldman.
-
Cost Bespoke two-piece suits from £4,500
-
Where 4 St James’s Place, SW1, atelierarena.com
Atelier Saman Amel
Minimalists, creatives, tastemakers
The Stockholm-based atelier, founded by childhood friends Saman Amel and Dag Granath, has become the tailor of choice for artists and creatives. “Creating a shape that flatters the body isn’t about making things tight,” says Granath. “It’s about adding volume in the right places.”
-
House codes Louche jackets. Luxe fabrics. Tonal combinations.
-
Classic clients Artist Lap-See Lam, athlete Mondo Duplantis and businessman Daniel Sachs are all patrons. “Saman Amel combines classic tailoring with a very relaxed feel,” says Sachs. “The craft is there, but it’s entirely without pretence.”
-
Cost Made-to-measure two-piece suits from £2,400
-
Where 17 Albemarle Street, W1, samanamel.com
Chittleborough & Morgan
Rock aristocracy
Master tailor Joe Morgan is one of the most exacting craftsmen on the Row. Like Edward Sexton, he worked closely with Tommy Nutter in the ’70s and ’80s, and takes great pride in channelling a modern version of the “Nutter’s of Savile Row” look. “Bespoke clothes have to have energy,” he says. “They need to feel sexy and energise you when you put them on.”
-
House codes Strong shoulders. Structured chests. Sharp peaked lapels. Square pocket flaps. Sharply cut, pleated trousers.
-
Classic clients Charlie Watts, Mick and Bianca Jagger, Cilla Black.
-
Cost Bespoke two-piece suits from £7,000
-
Where 12 Savile Row W1S, chittleboroughandmorgan.co.uk
Dunhill
Jet-setters
Dunhill distils its fashion pedigree into its bespoke tailoring offer, which is run from the brand’s Bourdon House flagship in Mayfair. Bespoke tailoring director Will Adams’ creations have a midcentury edge.
-
House codes Double-breasted fronts. Wide shoulders. Lightweight construction. Relaxed trousers. “We create masculine silhouettes in cloths with a distinctly English colour palette,” Adams says.
-
Classic clients Frank Sinatra, Nick Knight, James McAvoy.
-
Cost Bespoke two-piece suits from £5,600
-
Where Bourdon House, 2 Davies Street, W1, dunhill.com
Edward Sexton
Peacocks and power players
Together with his business partner Tommy Nutter, the late, great Edward Sexton made his name as the celebrity tailor of the 1970s, dressing tycoons, pop stars and supermodels. “We’re all about lengthening lines and creating shapes that flatter the figure with drama and poise,” says creative director Dominic Sebag-Montefiore.
-
House codes Wide lapels. Long jackets. Statement eveningwear.
-
Classic clients Chris Pine, Adam Lambert, Mick Jagger, Jarvis Cocker. “The shoulder line, the lapel and the proportions of the jacket are unique,” says art director and long-time client Peter Saville. “If you want something striking, go to Sexton.”
-
Cost Bespoke two-piece suits from £6,600
-
Where 35 Savile Row, W1, edwardsexton.co.uk
Gieves & Hawkes
High-powered creatives, design gurus
One of Savile Row’s oldest, established in 1771 on Brewer Street, today the house is home to perhaps the most progressive workshop on the street, helmed by innovative head cutter Davide Taub.
-
House codes Sleek double-breasted coats and blazers influenced by Gieves’ heritage as the go-to tailor for Royal Navy officers. “Our cut defines the most important points of the body; close neck, narrow shoulder, sharp line to the waist, generous lapels,” Taub says. “We encourage clients to develop their own timeless but individual style.”
-
Classic clients Ian Fleming, the Duke of Wellington, Admiral Lord Nelson.
-
Cost Bespoke two-piece suits from £6,800
-
Where 1 Savile Row, W1, gievesandhawkes.com
Henry Poole & Co
Royals, leaders, aristocrats
The oldest tailor on Savile Row, having opened here in 1806, Henry Poole claims sartorial firsts including the invention of the dinner suit for the future King Edward VII in 1865. “We disregard fashion and let ourselves be led by the client’s physique,” says owner Simon Cundey. “The Poole suit is meant to be timeless.”
-
House codes Padded shoulders. Roped sleeve heads. Immaculate dinner suits. Three-button hacking jackets and shooting suits.
-
Classic clients Charles Dickens, Sir Winston Churchill (he wears Poole in the “tommy gun” portrait), Emperor Hirohito, Edward Fox, Dr Livingstone, Bram Stoker.
-
Cost Bespoke two-piece suits from £6,463
-
Where 15 Savile Row, W1, henrypoole.com
Huntsman
Old-school, international money
One of the grandest and largest tailors on Savile Row, established in 1849. “If you only have one thing made it should be a checked tweed jacket,” says HTSI contributing editor Nick Foulkes. “That’s long been the house signature.”
-
House codes Colourful tweeds, structured shoulders. “The Huntsman cut was developed by combining elements from a riding coat and a dinner suit,” says head cutter Dario Carnera. “Our signature single-button fastening is a point of pride.”
-
Classic clients Gianni Agnelli, Gregory Peck, Stephen Fry, Eric Clapton.
-
Cost Bespoke two-piece suits from £6,700
-
Where 11 Savile Row, W1, huntsmansavilerow.com
Kathryn Sargent
Knowledge seekers
Kathryn Sargent is the first female master tailor in Savile Row’s history. Having trained at Gieves & Hawkes, she ticked off another first when she became its head cutter – the first female head cutter on the Row. She established her own firm in 2012.
-
House codes Classic proportions. Hourglass waists. Generous lapels. “I work in close collaboration with clients,” says Sargent. “I start by looking at the individual’s body shape and natural style; the aim is to create something that flatters and complements in an effortless way.”
-
Classic clients “Kathryn provided thoughtful guidance, educating me to create pieces that represented my personality and physical fit,” says Soho House & Co head of communications for the Americas Jakob Hesketh.
-
Cost Bespoke two-piece suits from £5,950
-
Where 21 Ryder Street, SW1, kathrynsargent.com
Kent & Haste
Tasteful traditionalists
A Savile Row stalwart with decades of experience, today Terry Haste works from a shop on Sackville Street that is every bit the quintessential “tailor’s den”, with bolts of fabric lining the walls. He’s known for his understated house style and playful sense of humour.
-
House codes Classic styling. Neat shoulders. Narrow hips. “We like to follow the line of the customer’s natural shoulder,” Haste says. “We don’t cut anything that’s too square or too stiff.”
-
Classic clients The late Duke of Edinburgh, Jack Nicholson, Rafe Spall. “Terry Haste is my favourite tailor,” says Foulkes. “I’ve been going to him for more than 30 years. He’s never made me a dud.”
-
Cost Bespoke two-piece suits from £4,800
-
Where 7 Sackville Street, W1, kenthaste.co.uk
Lawton
Rock ’n’ rollers
An independent tailoring success story. 30-year-old Kimberley Lawton designs architectural-looking suits with 1970s touches and a rock ’n’ roll aesthetic. “I cut strong shoulders, wide legs and a full chest that tapers into the waist,” says Lawton. “Think Mick Jagger or Bowie.”
-
House codes Broad peak lapels. Hourglass waists. Square shoulders. Flared trousers.
-
Classic clients Photographer Richard Learoyd, who says: “Kimberley’s attention to detail is incredible. Whenever I put on her suits I feel amazing confidence.”
-
Cost Bespoke two-piece suits from £5,950
-
Where Appointments via lawtonltd.co.uk
Michael Browne
Modernists and aesthetes
Michael Browne blurs the line between bespoke tailoring craft and a couture approach to design and fitting. From his Mayfair studio, he creates razor-sharp tailoring with incredible attention to hand-stitched detail. “The goal is to create an elevated look for our clients, with clean lines and structure,” says Browne, “but I focus on creating something that doesn’t feel like a heavy, structured garment.”
-
House codes Close fits. Sleek lines. Peak lapels. Another signature is Browne’s Body Coat, which combines the close fit of a blazer with the silhouette of an overcoat – perfect for wearing as a tailored top layer around town.
-
Classic clients Skepta has worn his black leather Michael Browne blazer for multiple performances.
-
Cost Bespoke two-piece suits from £8,250
-
Where 15 Bruton Place W1J, michaelbrowne.eu
Norton & Sons
Spick and span, suited and booted
Today, Norton & Sons makes the kind of suits you imagine James Bond would wear – clean, classic and sleek. The house’s heritage, though, is surprisingly exotic. “Norton’s specialised in clothes for adventurers and sportsmen,” says owner James Sleater. “Whereas many tailors have their roots in military dress and in making uniforms, Norton & Sons was the tailor that clients went to for fun.”
-
House codes Head cutter Martin Nicholls cuts suits that are a little easier than most Savile Row houses. “It’s a much softer shoulder than traditional British tailors,” Sleater adds. “The fronts on the jackets are rounded. We don’t go for the strong, linear English look.”
-
Classic clients Hugh Laurie, Alfred Hitchcock, Lord Carnarvon (of Tutankhamun fame), Colonel John Blashford-Snell, plus Robert Pattinson’s suits for The Batman.
-
Cost Bespoke two-piece suits from £6,000
-
Where 16 Savile Row, W1, nortonandsons.co.uk
Ollie’s
Easy-going enthusiasts, big personalities
Tall, bearded and warm-hearted, Oli Cross is a talented tailor and an expert at putting you at ease. His studio in the Oxo Tower is quite the hangout, with vintage furniture, shelves bursting with fabric sample books to peruse, and music care of a serious hi-fi.
-
House codes “I gravitate towards pleated trousers, full-bellied lapels and natural shoulder lines, but Ollie’s is all about accommodating the individual,” Cross says. “I’m a village tailor in a big city – I like being a small independent.”
-
Classic clients Cross made Idris Elba’s signature Harris tweed overcoats for Netflix’s Luther: The Fallen Sun.
-
Cost Bespoke two-piece suits from £4,000
-
Where 2.10 Oxo Tower Wharf, SE1, ollieslondon.co.uk
Ozwald Boateng
Drama and flamboyance
Ozwald Boateng OBE is part-tailor, part-fashion designer. His creations are vibrant, confident and make dramatic use of colour – partly inspired by the suits his Ghanaian father wore. “The role Boateng has played on Savile Row can’t be overlooked,” says menswear stylist Benedict Browne. “He was the first Black designer to open up on the Row.”
-
House codes Slim suits that add height. Rich patterns, checks, stripes and jacquards. “Savile Row has always stayed within the parameters of a conservative look,” Browne adds. “Boateng pushes British tailoring into the fashion landscape.”
-
Classic clients Laurence Fishburne, Jamie Foxx, Spike Lee. Boateng designed much of the wardrobe for Guy Ritchie’s Lock, Stock and Two Smoking Barrels.
-
Cost Made-to-measure two-piece suits from £3,850
-
Where 30 Savile Row, W1, ozwaldboateng.co.uk
P Johnson
Sartorial hipsters. Lounge lizards
Australian tailor P Johnson opened its London store in 2016 and brings much-needed Antipodean cool to London’s tailoring scene. Suits and separates are handmade in Italy and China.
-
House codes Slouchy jackets. Wide-leg, pleated trousers. High waists. Drapey fabrics. Earthy colours.
-
Classic clients Model and creative director Richard Biedul says: “P Johnson’s suits have a great fluidity to them, which comes from the brand’s incredible understanding of fabric. Their commitment to a louche 1980s, 1990s aesthetic is unparalleled.”
-
Cost Made-to-measure two-piece suits from £795
-
Where 31 Percy Street, W1, pjt.com
Richard Anderson
Thoroughbred classicists
Richard Anderson is another Savile Row heavyweight. Former head cutter at Huntsman, he’s run his own business since 2001. “Our house style has its origins in the traditional hacking jacket, derived from the 19th-century ‘Thornton’ system of cutting,” says Anderson. “We create clean lines designed to accentuate and improve the figure.”
-
House codes Straight lines. Trim lapels. Neat shoulders. Playful fabrics.
-
Classic clients IM Pei, George Michael, Bryan Ferry. “Richard makes perfect English ‘armour’,” says stylist and creative director William Gilchrist. “I’ve amassed a large number of dark-blue double-breasted suits from him.”
-
Cost Bespoke two-piece suits from £8,350
-
Where 13 Savile Row, W1, richardandersonltd.com
Richard James
Independent spirits, expressionists
Founded in 1992, Richard James was one of the bespoke tailors who transformed the perception of Savile Row in the 1990s and ’00s. The house made tailoring “cool” by mixing classic cuts with distinctive fabrics. “We’re well known for using colour and texture,” says co-founder Sean Dixon. “This has become more important now men don’t have to wear suits as a uniform.”
-
House codes Relatively slim lapels. Soft canvases. Low-rise trousers. Side adjusters.
-
Classic clients Andrew Garfield, Theo James. “The team are second to none, especially Sean’s creative steer and refreshing use of colour,” says the latter’s stylist Mary-Anna Kearney.
-
Cost Bespoke two-piece suits from £6,100
-
Where 29 Savile Row, W1, richard-james.com
Rubinacci
Dapper dandies
The London outpost of premier Neapolitan tailor Rubinacci is a temple to colour, pattern and vivacious styling. Patriarch Mariano Rubinacci is a living legend. His son Luca and daughter Chiara are both following in his footsteps.
-
House signatures Spalla camicia ruched sleeveheads. Featherweight jackets. Sharply tapered trousers. “Mariano introduced me to unstructured tailoring when he opened in London some 20 years ago,” says Foulkes. “I have the most appalling physique, but Rubinacci’s clothes always seem to flatter me.”
-
Classic client Grandees include Vittorio De Sica and Curzio Malaparte.
-
Cost Bespoke two-piece suits from £6,600
-
Where 96 Mount Street, W1, marianorubinacci.com
Speciale
Italophiles and comfort seekers
Another brand established by two friends, Speciale is the brainchild of entrepreneur Bert Hamilton Stubber and tailor George Marsh, who wanted to bring Marsh’s Florentine training to London.
-
House codes Natural shoulders. Sloping lapels. Curved, open jacket fronts. “There’s nothing stylised or dramatic enough about our cut to take away from you being the most practical and comfiest version of yourself,” says Marsh.
-
Classic clients Daniel Kleinman, designer of the Bond movie title sequences since Goldeneye. Lyndsey Ingram, gallerist. Simone Gooch, florist.
-
Cost Bespoke two-piece suits from £5,350
-
Where 324 Portobello Road, W10, speciale324.com
Taillour
Understated east London cool
Taillour stands apart from the West End tailoring establishment, instead occupying a quirky townhouse in Spitalfields. Head cutter Fred Nieddu is happy to experiment with style and cut. “He’ll pick up a pencil and start sketching what your jacket will look like,” says Puri. “It’s a wonderful way to start the process.”
-
House codes Square lapels. Trim fits. Pleated trousers.
-
Classic clients The house specialises in film costume. Nieddu has made suits for Ralph Fiennes in the Bond franchise, and dressed Matt Smith, Josh O’Connor and Dominic West for The Crown.
-
Cost Bespoke two-piece suits from £5,760
-
Where 2 Pecks Yard, Hanbury Street, E1, taillour.co.uk
Thom Sweeney
Modern men about town
“Thom Sweeney has crafted a neat formula for a contemporary look,” says Browne. “The tailoring is immaculate and very comfortable to wear.” Sweeney’s silhouette is squarer than an Italian cut, but it has the same slim lines and lightness.
-
House codes Lightweight. Shorter jackets. Broader lapels. Tapered trousers.
-
Classic clients Ryan Gosling, Robert Downey Jr, Tom Hardy. Also, David Duchovny, who says: “I love the people and the clothes; they’re both timeless and current, classic and new.”
-
Cost Bespoke two-piece suits from £5,995
-
Where 24c Old Burlington Street, W1, thomsweeney.com
Whitcomb & Shaftesbury
Craft lovers and perfectionists
With premises in London and Chennai, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury offers Savile Row-grade tailoring that’s cut and fitted in its London workrooms, and sewn together in India.
-
House codes A roomy silhouette, cut with the traditional “shape and drape” technique. Standout smoking jackets, dinner suits and morning coats.
-
Classic clients Richard Gere, cricketer Matthew Hayden and tennis hall-of-famer Vijay Amritraj, who says: “Their service is truly exceptional.”
-
Cost Bespoke two-piece suits from £3,600
-
Where 11 St George St, W1, whitcombshaftesbury.co.uk
Read the full article here