Skincare guru Peter Thomas Roth counts among his devotees stars like Kim Kardashian, Margot Robbie, and Selena Gomez.
Suffering from acne as a teenager led him to found his own skincare brand in 1993. Born in New York to a Hungarian family that ran spas in the late 19th and early 20th century, he learned all about the mineral-rich thermal spring waters that were essential to his family’s resorts.
Roth, still based in New York, has traveled the world searching for the most effective ingredients for his skincare products. He has made his name as a leader in anti-aging products and has had viral clips on TikTok showing how his formulas work—some say his products are like “Botox in a bottle.” He’s also created acne products for adults, which are sometimes difficult to find on the market, as well as skin-tightening formulas and acne pads.
Roth is also a jewelry designer (his parents ran a jewelry shop) and a philanthropist.
Roth speaks to Penta about his brand’s 30-year anniversary, the ever-changing beauty landscape, and his own skincare regime.
PENTA: Adult acne is a real thing and people don’t like to talk about it. What are your thoughts on it?
Peter Thomas Roth: For those of us who have it, we don’t need any greasy moisturizers. I have a lot of acne products. If you have it, you must fix it. Everyone likes to fix it differently. Salicylic acid prevents it, but people layer so much stuff on our face that we could be lighter with what we put on our faces. You don’t want to be greasy. Everyone is different, it’s all personal.
How did you get into skincare back in 1993?
Can you imagine it’s been 30 years? I was always the new kid on the block. Now, I’m a legacy brand. Don’t even say those words together! My grandparents on my dad’s side had a spa in Hungary, and there are springs everywhere. They’re really into skincare. I’ve had acne for years. I fell into skincare for a hobby.
What is the best breakthrough formula you’ve had?
I opened my own lab and did my own old-fashioned stuff because it’s not that hard to do. Bigger brands—and I don’t want to speak for them—but I know that what I do costs more. I try to do everything I can with good ingredients. Why buy a cream that doesn’t have enough of the ingredients you want? It doesn’t make sense to me. Like a car, I want to know about the engine, leather, wheels, everything.
Your three focus areas are acne, anti-aging and sun damage, which one is the biggest?
Anti-aging is the most popular. Everyone gets older. With Botox, it dissipates month after month, even though you look great walking out of the doctor’s office. With my skincare line, we’re there to help keep it going.
What are your top highlights over your 30-year career?
I look at it like walking up a staircase—there’s always something that got us to the next level. It started with some spas and skincare salons, then it reached Marriott, and we got a bunch of spa accounts with Marriott Hotels. Then we went to other hotels. A few years later, Ulta knocked on our door, then QVC. Now we are in anniversary mode. We’re still hip and young. I have so many younger people come to me and ask: “You started your brand a few years ago, right?” It’s still hot and trendy, but we’re not new.
How many people are on your team?
A few hundred people. We have 15 people in marketing. Retailers do their own thing, too. We are in Mexico, Canada, Europe, Asia, and more. We’re available in over 25 countries. When we started out, it was me and two people. We started out in a small office in Rockefeller Center. We started out with 10 products, and what’s left of it is the Cucumber Gel Mask and the AHA/BHA Acne Clearing Gel, a different version of it. They both work.
What is your skincare regime?
I use all my acne products, including the cleanser three times a day. Sometimes I use my Water Drench product, other times I use retinol. I like using face masks, too. I like using new things, too. I use my face as a laboratory for the brand. Sometimes my face looks bad because it isn’t good for oily skin, or it was too strong for me. I get a feel for it.
What did you think of the anti-aging cream that went viral on TikTok? A woman tried on your Instant FIRMx Temporary Eye Tightener and the bags under her eyes disappeared.
It was crazy! That was unpaid for. That’s a 12-year-old product. It’s a complicated formula. It took a while, and it’s strong.
What’s your best-selling product?
Interesting question. The Instant FIRMx Temporary Eye Tightener was a bestseller for awhile but it depends what is selling at certain stores. It depends on the level of the moment at the stores. But my Water Drench products are always in the top three.
Can we talk about your jewelry line?
My dad came to the U.S. after closing the spas in Hungary and made rings, as he used to make crown teeth back in Hungary. He went into the jewelry business. It’s nostalgic for me. I have my own designer jewelry on QVC, but I still sell it with Macy’s. It reminds me of my dad, and I want it to keep going because of that. I have my cuff bracelet; I always wear it. I love it. It’s my favorite. It’s unisex. My skincare products are all unisex, too.
How has the beauty landscape changed?
It was all department stores, and some aestheticians. Then when Sephora and Ulta came along, which showcase niche brands like me, it was amazing. Now, entry to the beauty world is much easier, compared to department stores. Now, Sephora and Ulta are both giants. They keep things fresh. If skincare is selling, we all do well. If other skincare brands are dying, that’s bad for all of us.
This interview has been edited for length and clarity.
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